A friendly--and enterprising--local hooked us up with delicious butterfish fillets and even gutted them, splitting them right down the middle for me to do the grilling.
Avoiding restaurants and tables clothes worked to our advantage. We found an empty gazebo right on the beach and ate with the moonlight pouring in. Romantically cliche, no?
We also had visitors in no short supply. Early each morning, a curious group of vervet monkeys swarmed near out tents looking for bananas and other food. Only one banana went MIA. Later in the morning, a large troupe of baboons scaled the brick walls to rummage through garbage cans, drink from the toilets, and--apparently mimicking us--take in the lake.
On our last day, the weather turned cold and the wind whipped the lake into a fury. The beach was shut down because of the rough waters, so leaving our paradise behind was sweet sorrow. We said good-bye to the island with monitor lizards and the hazy views of the distant southern coast of Lake Malawi and trudged home.
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